After The Tears, New Travel Opportunities

Lisa Allen.
4 September 2003
Australian Financial Review
(c) 2003 John Fairfax Holdings Limited. Not available for re-distribution.

Economic travails apart, Argentina is an affordable and delicious destination, writes Lisa Allen.

SOME PORTENOS, as the citizens of Buenos Aires are known, may be trying to keep up appearances with elegant European suits and smart hairdos. But they are no doubt remembering with nostalgia the days, not so long ago, when the South American republic was a world power enjoying similar economic wealth to Australia 's.

From the wide boulevards of the city's plazas, where the paint peels from the walls of crumbling villas to the broken footpaths which bedevil unwary pedestrians, Buenos Aires is a beguiling and enchanting mix of the old and the new. Although the Argentinian economy has hit rock bottom, you shouldn't miss either.

And the country's dramatic slide has, sadly, created a wealth of budget travel opportunities. Australians may be finding it difficult to do Europe on the scale and in the style to which they had become accustomed in previous decades. But in Argentina, you get all that splendour on a shoestring, plus luxury goods marked down to clear, all set to a Latin American beat.

The historic architecture of the grand French-inspired public buildings clustered near the city's waterfront, merges with the colourful neighbourhood or barrio, La Boca, established by Italian immigrants in the 1800s. "Argentinians are Italians who speak Spanish, believe they are English, but would like to be French," Carlos, a budding opera singer who makes ends meet moonlighting as a guide, tells us.

Buenos Aires burghers ordered Spanish or French architects to design many of the city's best public architecture including the Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires ' ornate six-level opera house built in 1908. Most nights of the week you pay just $4 to watch the city's prestigious ballet company or hear the city's fine orchestra and the brilliant 17-year-old pianist, Horacio. Or take the guided tour into the catacombs of this grand old icon.

But that's if the city's power supplies run through the night. Buenos Aires is afflicted with electrical outages, a symptom no doubt of the government's economic malaise. Inflation is running at more than 40 per cent, unemployment is 50 per cent and about two thirds has been chopped off the value of the peso after sharp devaluations in January, 2002.

People no longer pay income tax or their house mortgages. The government has extended its moratorium on banks, stopping them from foreclosing. Public utilities were long ago sold to foreigners and real estate prices have plummeted 70 per cent. Argentina has defaulted several times on the billions of dollars it owes to the International Monetary Fund. Its citizens are rationed by the amounts they can withdraw from their bank account each month and some country folk now trade in grain not pesos.

Some portenos have taken to the streets in anger, others have smashed the automatic teller machines. While the locals you meet all insist tourists are particularly critical to the economy at the moment, travelling here often requires a strong stomach. The Guardian for instance has characterised cheapies to Buenos Aires as "grief tourism". Cartoneros, or street scavengers, gather after daily demonstrations to pick up the paper banners and pamphlets decrying the interim government. Selling kilos of paper to the recycling plants is one way the estimated 200,000 homeless get by. "They come around to our houses asking for paper to sell to the recycling plants, money and food," says Luz, an unemployed art critic. "You can tell they are middle class because they have good teeth," she says.

In fact it wasn't always like this. Early in the 20th century this was the seventh richest country in the world, with a per capita income ahead of Canada , France , the Netherlands , Italy , and not far behind that of the United States .

But successive governments allowed an increased foreign presence and the country competed with the new giants in agricultural production such as the United States and Australia at a time when world demand was shrinking.

One former president, Carlos Menem, is blamed by most of the country's population of 37 million for the economic collapse. Political corruption is rife and the nation's politics is at best confused, at worst it is poised to plunge the country into further chaos. Iconic British department store Harrods has long closed its doors. But other luxury brands struggle on. Buenos Aires may be mired in genteel poverty, but it retains its essential elegance.

Ralph Lauren spent big bucks restoring a French mansion in moneyed Recoleta, a suburb near Buenos Aires city centre, but is regretting the day it invested in Argentina , according to locals. Buenos Aires shopping offers some serious bargains, and its citizens, despite the chaos, are among the best dressed and the best looking in the world. Stroll along the Florida Mall, in the heart of the city, and you'll soon be in possession of a fine leather jacket for a little over $200. It's hard to ignore locally made leather shoes and handbags at just $30 or stock up on CDs the latest cost a mere $7.

Whatever your penchant history, culture, shopping, or the local gourmet delicacies there's a part of this city to tempt you. Stroll through San Telmo's grand streets and old neighbourhoods where antique houses sell opulent French crystal chandeliers and beautiful jewellery such as gold, ruby and diamond watches from the 1940s for less than $500. Across the city is Cementerio de la Recoleta billed as one of the world's great cemeteries. Meander through the mausoleum's twisting alleyways and discover the final resting place of Evita Peron. Or marvel at the marble statues, and urns harking back to the glory days of Buenos Aires when money from beef, agriculture and silver exports fuelled displays of wealth and privilege.

Kidnappers are now targeting the rich with local identities, such as actors and singers, being the main targets. While they have not focused their attention on tourists, locals implore foreigners to take only Radio Taxis preferably ordered from the safety of the hotel. In any case, taxis will not cost much, most trips across town will set you back about $2.

When the day's sightseeing is done, you can dine out in splendour at one of Buenos Aires ' many eateries. Local restaurants will serve you the finest eye fillet, smothered in a rich roquefort, mushroom or pepper sauce, plus a delectable Argentinian Malbec wine for just $9 for the entire dinner. Fancy a more opulent meal? Try Olsen, a `Wallpaper Magazine'-inspired restaurant serving the latest Scandinavian delicacies on Calle Gorriti.

A selection of five variously flavoured vodkas and open faced sandwiches will set you back $15. The filet of beef with roquefort cheese and hazelnut crumble accompanied with roasted beetroot for about $8 is outstanding.

For a glimpse of the old Buenos Aires , try the atmospheric Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo for fabulous coffees and cakes stuffed with the local delicacy, dulce con leche, a thick, achingly sweet caramel. If wine is more your penchant, locals recommend the Montchenot 1978, a limited edition blend, of cabernet sauvignon, Malbec and merlot costing all of $42.

"This is fantastic," says one local connoisseur. But his wife disagrees. She says a 1996 syrah or shiraz called Finca La Anita, at $34 from the wine region of Mendoza , is the finest example of Argentina 's alcoholic produce.

But if you are a foodie at heart take the plane to Bariloche in the lakes district, the jumping off point to Patagonia , to explore the scenic region and indulge in one of Argentina 's great eating centres.

Not only is Bariloche the chocolate capital of Argentina, where handmade chocolates, delectable gelatos and ice creams at foodie supermarkets such as Fenoglio and Del Turista tempt the traveller at every turn, it also houses the truly great restaurant La Marmite in the centre of town. Fresh local trout smothered in almond sauce, eye filet in a mushroom sauce with potato galette, fine white and red wines hailing from an affiliate of the French Chandon vineyards in the Argentinian wine capital of Mendoza, can be had for as little as $12 for the meal.

Or visit the nearby Llao Llao Resort, billed as Argentina 's best hotel where you can indulge in any food fantasy such as Patagonian lamb, or a selection of meats from the parilla for about the same price. Nestled in a mountain range surrounded by high peaks iced with snow the famous resort overlooks some of the most picturesque lakes and inlets in South America . The lakes district is famous for skiing, and trout fishing where one local punter recently landed a nine kilogram trout. But hiking, and horseback riding through the beautiful parks including Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, are also extremely popular. Or take the advice of one of Argentina 's finest actors, Ricardo Darin, who in keeping with extraordinarily warm reception tourists receive here recommended the AFR visit the alpine township of San Martin de los Andes high in the mountain ranges. This tiny town attracts the rich and the beautiful, both summer and winter.

But perhaps Darin, who appeared in Kamchatka , which screened recently at the Sydney film festival can offer a glimmer of economic hope. He says that while the country's economy is at crisis point, its film industry is doing very well. Indeed, everywhere you go in Buenos Aires you see films being shown.